Frequently Asked Questions - Detailing 101

            1. What is detailing clay?
2. What are swirl marks and spider-webbing?
3. Can swirl marks and spider-webbing be removed? How does it work?
4. Abrasive polishes on my car’s paintwork!?
5. Now that my paintwork is swirl-free, how do I keep it this way?
6. Using an automatic car wash seems much easier. Why not do that?
7. Are there other forms of paint defects besides swirls?
8. The dealership is giving me free car washes! Isn’t that great?
9. What is the difference between a wax and a sealant?
10. Why not just skip the polishing/paint correction step? Waxing makes the paint look just as good…
11. I just bought a new car. Does it need detailed?
12. What brands of products do you use?
13. Why should I have my vehicle detailed, especially this extensively?
14. How long do the results last?

 

1. What is detailing clay?

Detailing clay is a specific type of pliable material made for automotive finishes that is used to remove bonded contaminants that embed into a vehicle’s painted surfaces over time. Common contaminates include tar, paint overspray, industrial fallout, brake dust, and other airborne pollution.  These contaminants can lead to premature paint failure if not removed. A normal wash cannot remove what claying can. Claying is necessary step because it will ensure for a clean surface for a wax or sealant to bond to, maximizing its durability. Waxing a car that hasn’t been clayed is like putting a car cover on a dirty vehicle before washing it. A clayed surface is also necessary for polishing.

2. What are swirl marks and spider-webbing?

"SWIRLED" PAINTWORK (DAMAGED):

FLAWLESS PAINTWORK:

 

Both terms are referring to the same condition—very fine scratches. When sunlight or other light sources come in contact with the paint swirl marks are very visible, especially on darker colored vehicles. These very fine scratches diffuse light and make the paint appear dull. The #1 cause for this type of defect is improper washing techniques and tools.

3. Can swirl marks and spider-webbing be removed? How does it work?

In most cases, these defects can be completely removed, or at least improved. This involves using abrasive polishes or compounds by machine to “re-level” the paintwork. This step is known as paint correction. Depending on the level of severity of the swirling, 1-4 polishing steps could be required. For example, the average vehicle would likely need at least 2 polishing steps—the first being a more aggressive polish to remove most defects and a final polish to further increase the level of gloss and clarity.

4. Abrasive polishes on my car’s paintwork!?

Yes, that is correct. But, not to worry, as only an extremely small amount of paint is being removed. The typical body panel may consist of 4-7 mils in total paint thickness.  1 mil = 0.001 inch. Approximately 50% of a typical 3-stage paint job is the clear coat, which is the layer getting polished. A very heavy polishing job will remove about .1 to .2 mils. Note that, however, some deeper scratches cannot always be removed safely. Each paint correction detail begins with measuring the paint’s thickness with an electronic thickness gauge.

5. Now that my paintwork is swirl-free, how do I keep it this way?

Now that the paintwork is swirl-free you are sure to want to keep it that way. Since most swirl marks are induced in the washing of a vehicle it is necessary to use caution. Using the steps below will minimize the risk of re-introducing swirls.

Use proper washing techniques:

• First, you must not think of washing your car as just making it clean again. It must be thought as removing abrasive contaminants from your paintwork while not harming the finish.
  
• Pre-rinse the vehicle to remove all dirt possible.
• Use two wash buckets, one filled with a car soap and water mixture, the second filled with just water for cleaning the wash media when it becomes soiled.
• Use a wash mitt that does a good job of lifting up dirt, not dragging the dirt across the paint (causing scratches or swirls). A sheepskin or microfiber wash mitt would be a good choice. Brushes, while soft, would not be good to use on painted surfaces.
• Work from the top of the vehicle to the bottom or from cleanest to dirtiest.
• Clean small sections at a time, frequently cleaning your wash mitt.
• Make a couple light, low pressure, overlapping passes with your wash mitt on the area you are working with instead of just one pass with greater pressure. This lessens the chance of scratching and ensures each panel is getting completely clean.
  
• Do not let the wash mitt fall to the ground…and continue to use it without a very thorough cleaning.
• Use a separate tool like a wheel brush for cleaning wheels as they tend to be much dirtier than the paintwork. Never go from cleaning the wheels to the paintwork with the same cleaning tool.
• Use only microfiber to dry the vehicle. These are the best to use as they are very absorbent, soft, and are the least likely to scratch the paint. An old terry cloth bath or beach towel is not the best way to dry paint. These can cause light scratches as the fibers are likely worn from many washes and become harder than when they were new.
• Also, in between washes, avoid making contact with the paint, especially rubbing up against it with any part of your clothing or skin. This can cause scratches.
• If your vehicle is "just a little dirty" think twice before simply wiping it down with a towel, even if it is microfiber. Remember, any dirt or debris that a vehicle has picked up since the last wash can easily cause imperfections when moved across (or ground into) the paintwork.
  

 

6. Using an automatic car wash seems much easier. Why not do that?

Do not use automatic [swirl-o-matic] car washes. This is possibility the quickest way to undo several hours of machine polishing, or further dull your vehicles appearance. Ask yourself “Do they ever wash those “soft cloths”? “What dirty vehicles went through the tunnel before mine”?  This assembly line method of cleaning vehicles is also much less thorough than a proper hand wash.

7. Are there other forms of paint defects besides swirls?

Buffer trails

Another paint defect that is fairly common is holograms or buffer trails. These are caused by someone improperly attempting to use a rotary (circular) polisher. If others advertise to simply “buff” the paintwork without giving any other details, the results are likely to be mediocre and cause more harm than good. Or, many quantity-over-quality detailers will use an overly harsh compound and fail to complete the final polishing steps required to remove the buffer marks. To top it off, some will use a “glaze,” which is commonly used for its filling properties to temporarily hide the damage. If someone providing these services can’t specifically describe what a rotary polisher is doing to the paint, it doesn’t belong on your vehicle.

Water spot and bird excrement etching

When water dries on your vehicles paint finish it can often leave water spots due to high mineral content. Sometimes these can “etch” their way into a clearcoat and require machine polishing to remove. To avoid this, wash your vehicle out of direct sunlight and dry it as soon as possible. Also, avoid parking in range of a sprinkler system. Similar results can occur when a bird deposits its waste, and it always seems to happen right after you wash your car!

Clear coat failure

Clear coat failure is the deterioration of the top layer of paint. When this happens the color below begins to oxidize. A variety of factors can play a part in this type of paint failure, including the combination of environment exposure and lack of proper detailing or a poor paint job from the factory. Unfortunately, the only proper fix for this is a repaint.

8. The dealership is giving me free car washes! Isn’t that great?

Simply put, no. One quick improper wash can ruin the many hours of polishing it took to make the paint look like it is meant to—flawless. Unfortunately, many (not all) dealerships’ detailing departments are not likely up to the standards required to maintain properly detailed paintwork. In addition, a "hand" car wash makes no guarantee that the methods and tools being used won't undo 12+ hours of polishing.

9. What is the difference between a wax and a sealant?

There are two choices when it comes to protecting paintwork: a traditional wax, known as Carnauba wax, or the newer polymer sealant, also referred to as a synthetic wax. Although they have differing characteristics, both have the same goal—protection. What differentiates the two visually? Carnauba waxes are typically described to provide a warm glow to the paint, versus the glossier look of many sealants. Typically, a sealant will come out on top in terms of durability, but this topic is very debatable.

10. Why not just skip the polishing/paint correction step? Waxing makes the paint look just as good…

Not necessarily. The condition of the paintwork by itself, without a wax or sealant, makes up about 90-95% of how good (or bad) the paint looks. In other words, a wax or sealant is limited to how good it can look by the condition of the paint below it. So, the extra 5-10% in gloss, depth, wet-look, glow, or shine can be added by the last step of protection.

11. I just bought a new car. Does it need detailed?

It is frequently assumed that a new car is in perfect condition. Although it should be, it is most likely not the case. Because most new vehicles spend time sitting outside at a car lot, yes, a “new” vehicle would likely benefit from detailing; at least on the exterior level. In transportation to and sitting at a car dealership gives a vehicle plenty of time to attract contaminants to the paintwork, making claying beneficial. Since most vehicles spend time at a car dealership before being purchased they are likely washed several times and receive the popular “dealership installed” swirl marks package at no extra charge.

12. What brands of products do you use?

I use many different brands, some of which can be purchased over the counter, but most are boutique, higher end products that do not sacrifice quality for price. All of the products and brands that I use have been researched and/or tested thoroughly to ensure they are of only of the highest quality, most effective, yet safest for your vehicle. A few of my favorite brands to use include P21S, Menzerna, Meguiar's, and Optimum. I do not swear by any particular brand and always remember process and technique are more important than a product name.


At first glance the services available may appear to be an over-glorified, unnecessary, and over the top expense compared to the average car wash detail shop. Many have received the “detail special” from the dealership or other detail shop and noticed their vehicle return to the same appearance after a few washes, maybe with the addition of some buffer trails—showing the true condition of the paint after the glaze or wax packed with fillers washes away. Over the Top Detailing specializes in removing defects, not temporarily hiding them. By taking the proper steps to maintain or restore your vehicle’s appearance, there are significant benefits—one being increased value. Obviously, when a potential buyer is interested in a vehicle for sale they are interested in two major aspects of condition: the mechanical condition and outward appearance. Over the Top Detailing can ensure the second item is taken care of to the fullest potential possible. A car that looks nearly new will be worth more than one that looks just average for its age. Not to mention, who doesn’t want their car to look new for as long as possible? Many people have been proud owners of a new car at one point or another but their enthusiasm deteriorates along with the appearance of their once prized possession after just a few years. Over the Top Detailing offers basic services that can take as little as four hours to complete, which concentrate on decontamination and protection, or, on the other end of the spectrum, several days. The latter focuses on improving the condition of the paint (paint correction) as well as protection.


Paint correction/swirl removal will last as long as the vehicle is maintained properly. This includes using the correct washing tools and techniques that will reduce the potential for re-damaging the paint. Protection (wax, sealant, etc) durability will greatly vary and be dependent on a variety of factors including product(s) used, number of applications or layers applied, how often the vehicle is cleaned, and the environment the vehicle is exposed to.